This section explains in detail the characteristics of cloth, classification and identification. For the average person, just know it (because of too much content ... so this part can be ignored.)
I, the characteristics of the fabric - each fabric has its own characteristics, which is its own conditions and performance.
The characteristics of the material can be divided into fibril raw materials, weaving, texture, weight, feel, finishing wear and cleaning performance and so on.
A brief description of the fabric weave, texture, weight, wearing performance.
1, weaving: fabrics, including woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, the vast majority of our clothing is woven, the most common woven fabric with plain weave, twill, etc., refers to the orderly woven yarn intertwined cloth body Structure, the fabric of the texture, texture and feel.
2, texture: Each material has its own organizational structure, due to the different material and weave, have different touch / visual effects. Such as: smooth shiny cotton, soft and lightweight yarn and so on. An original cosplay dress is very focused texture, so be careful when choosing the fabric, oh, it is best to discuss with the tailor tailoring methods and materials.
3, weight: The weight of the fabric usually refers to G / M, (how many grams per meter). Needless to say this one, you want to choose the effect of a little more elegant light fabric, and vice versa. Such as the outer jacket, skirts, pants and more heavy body with more fabric, while the shirt is lighter fabric, the other, the fabric and the season also has a close relationship between autumn and winter will basically use heavier fabrics, spring and summer basic Will be and lighter fabrics.
4, wear and cleaning performance: wearing performance is durable clothing, cleaning performance refers to the clothes can be machine wash change or need to hand wash or dry cleaning. This is important for everyday wear, but cosplay clothes are largely negligible. Sometimes in order to achieve the original effect of BT need to use very troublesome fabrics, coupled with the clothes are not often worn, it will sacrifice the convenience of wearing and cleaning performance.
II, the classification of fabric
In fact, the fabric has multiple meanings, according to the material of the fabric is called textile fibers.
Although a wide variety of textile fibers, but basically divided into two categories of natural fibers and chemical fibers:
★ natural fiber refers to the nature of some, or from artificially cultured animals directly obtained textile fibers.
★ chemical fiber is a natural or synthetic polymer as raw material, the textile fibers produced by a certain method.
★ Man-made fiber refers to the natural polymer (such as wood, bagasse or animal fibers, etc.) as raw material, after a certain processing spinning the fiber surface.
★ Synthetic fiber is made of petroleum, coal, natural gas and some agricultural and sideline products as raw materials, synthetic polymer giant spinning fiber.
First, the nature of natural fibers
(A), cotton
1, hygroscopicity, comfortable to wear, easy to dye, easier to shrink.
2, alkali-resistant acid, mercerized cotton is treated with caustic soda cotton fabric.
3, cotton fiber is more heat-resistant, but not suitable for a long time in more than 100 degrees, such as ironing temperature at about 190 degrees, the best when the cotton fabric wetting spray, which will help ironing.
4, cotton fiber soft, poor weak, cotton fabric feel good, comfortable to wear, wash, but easy to wrinkle, suitable for all seasons clothing and bedding.
(B), Ma
Many varieties of hemp, ramie, linen, jute, marijuana, etc.; before the more secret in the fabric is the first two. Ma and cotton have some of the same properties.
1, hygroscopicity, alkali is not acid.
2, heat resistance is also better, the ironing temperature up to 190 degrees - 210 degrees, easy to burn.
3, the strength is higher than cotton, hemp fiber is harder, weakness is poor, the fabric is easy to wrinkle, hard than cotton fabric, very, cool. The so-called summer cloth, that is, southerners love to wear ramie fabric, sweat does not close.
Ramie is the best quality fiber in hemp fiber, which is cool, hygroscopic, breathable and so on. And it has high rigidity, hardness, very tightness and no close fit. It is suitable for making summer clothing. Ramie and polyester blend processing in the "hemp really good", with a very cool style.
(C), hair
Wool fibers used on the largest amount of wool, commonly known as wool.
Wool fibers are longer and longer than cotton fibers and have a certain amount of curl. Their surface is covered with a layer of scales. Due to the presence of scales, it brings a special property to wool, that is, flocking. Fleece refers to the wool in the warm water and washing liquid to rub, bite each other felting properties. In the life of wool products caused by shrinkage after washing, density becomes larger, down is one of the reasons, if the scales destroyed, so smooth and smooth performance, the hair products will not occur Milling. Therefore, the machine was sold on the market sweater, after this surface treatment.
Less, slightly.
(Four), silk
Natural silk is divided into silkworm silk and wild silk, silkworm silk is mulberry silk; wild silk in the main species of tussah silk. Silk strength, slender fibers, soft and smooth, weak than cellulose fibers, with a unique luster. Silk fabric that is as thin as possible yarn, but also to make it full and enterprising as intimacy, is high sewing materials, and wool, like protein fiber.
Unless it is very willing to cos, or rarely use such an exaggerated expensive fiber it. slightly.
Second, the nature of chemical fiber
★ As a clothing material is mainly seven tenon, their common characteristics are as follows:
A hygroscopicity is generally lower than natural fibers, easily rubbed with static electricity, easy to absorb dust.
B most of the high strength, good elasticity, wear long easy to play ball.
C burning generally soften shrinkage, and some can melt, produce drop drawing, odor, ironing temperature is lower than natural fibers.
D heat setting better, because of their hygroscopicity, so after washing can remain intact.
(A), polyester (indeed good)
Is currently the fastest growing fiber in a fiber. Commonly known as good indeed. It is made of silk fabrics soft yarn, Julie yarn, Christie, and the recent mention of the summer market by the so-called "hemp yarn" and so on. The polyester and cotton blended cotton that is indeed good (cotton polyester), blended with wool for the Wool polyester, with Ma Wenmian Ma Muda, etc. Features: a hot, airtight feeling, dyeing is not easy, friction with static electricity, easy to vacuum , But not easily shrink, easy to wash, quick-drying.
(B), nylon (nylon, nylon, Capron)
Commonly known as nylon, nylon, Capron, etc., its characteristics: good elasticity, high strength, high wear resistance, poor light resistance, easy to sun in the sun yellowing commonly used in socks, gloves and knitted sportswear.
(C), Acrylic (Ao-lun, cashmere, Aixlex)
With a fluffy, soft, warm and other characteristics, such as light weight, cheap, bright color, high degree of Taiwan, not moldy, after washing do not burn. Suitable for autumn and winter apparel fabrics, such as acrylic sweaters, spinning fur coats, blankets and so on.
(Four), vinylon (vinylon, yarn, coke)
Vinylon and cotton blend, it became the domestic market once popular Victoria cotton fabric. Vinylon fabric resembles cotton, which is the closest to the cotton fiber in the synthetic fiber. Since Vinylon is used in our country for less clothes and more for bedding, it is not introduced much.
(E), viscose
The raw materials are natural materials, such as wood, bamboo, linters, bagasse and so on, spun out of the fiber, also known as rayon, the fabrics are: beautiful silk, Fuchun spinning, artificial satin, artificial cotton, artificial fur. Its characteristics are as follows:
1, hygroscopic, flammable.
2, the surface is smooth, feel soft. Viscose fabric drape than cotton, suitable for dresses and all kinds of fabric, lining.
(F), vinegar (ester, acid) fiber (dimension)
Most of them appear in silk style, except for fabric, but also commonly used as lining and so on.
(Seven), spandex (Malibu, Lycra)
With only high elasticity like glue, it is also called elastic fiber. Can replace the use of rubber, but the current price is more expensive.
1, high flexibility, with other fibers less than the high elasticity, good wear resistance.
2, in the case of cold snow or sun without losing its flexibility.
III fabric sign
First, cotton:
Advantages: Sweat-absorbent breathable, soft, anti-sensitive, easy to clean, not easy to pilling the ball.
Disadvantages: easy to wrinkle, shrink, easy to deform.
Second, wool:
Advantages: warm, soft hair, good elasticity, strong insulation.
Disadvantages: Easy pilling ball, shrink, felting reaction.
Third, skin:
Advantages: a certain degree of respiratory performance, high durability, high temperature.
Color: Dark, soft leather color, leather is bright.
Fourth, nylon:
Advantages: smooth surface, light, durable, easy to wash and easy to dry, fixed elasticity and flexibility.
Disadvantages: easy to produce static electricity.
Five, polyester fiber:
Advantages: good elasticity, silky soft, not easy to soft, soft hair.
Disadvantages: poor ventilation, easy to play static and hair ball.
Six, cotton:
Natural fabrics, comfortable to wear, breathable, warm, but easy to wrinkle, easy care, poor durability, easy to fade.
hemp:
Seven, natural fabrics, comfortable, lightweight, breathable, but easy to wrinkle, not stiff, poor flexibility, wearing a skin itch feeling.
Eight, polyester:
Chemical fiber fabrics, easy care, crisp, do not iron, but poor ventilation, easy to produce static electricity, easy to stain.
Nine, silk:
Smooth and soft, good texture, colorful, but not easy to care, easy to wrinkle, shrinking.
Ten, silk:
Soft gloss, soft, delicate.
Rayon: metallic luster, feel hard.
Eleven, silk - fabric shiny, soft and bright, soft, smooth, less prone to wrinkles, a certain stretch.
Twelve, silk and rayon
1, silk: soft touch, full of elasticity, soft moon siren sound;
Rayon: Feel a little stiff, wet feeling, body vertical.
2, silk fabric gloss more quiet, bright without glare; rayon fabric has a unique metallic luster, bright and dazzling than silk fabric.
3, after grasping the fabric by hand to put the day, less and no obvious wrinkles silk fabric, rayon more wrinkles.
Six, viscose - luster than cotton bright, appearance than cotton fine and smooth, soft and smooth feel, body more soft vertical, lack of flexibility, easy to wrinkle wrinkles, wrinkles easy to recover.
This identification method can generally identify the fabric, but has some limitations. It is sometimes difficult to make accurate identification of the blended fabric, but the sensory identification method is simple and easy, and can be carried out without damaging the clothes, suitable for general daily use.
For some reputable shopping malls or underwear brands, you can directly identify the identity card can know the underwear fabric composition. These signs are only through the detection of textile quality testing agencies can be hanging, with strong authority. There are two general signs on the label, one fiber name, the second is the fiber content (generally expressed as a percentage). Sometimes you will find that the name of the fiber on the sign is in English and looks very laborious. Below is a list of common Chinese and English names of fibers.
Cotton Cotton
Acrylic
Linen linen
Spandex Polyurethanes
Wool Wool
Polypropylene
Silk
Polyvinyl Chloride
Rayon
Cuprammonium Cuprammonuium (Cupro)
Polyester Polyester Acetate Acetate
Polyamide
Nylon) Nylon
Elastic Fiber Polythane (Elastan)
Vinyl
Rayon Nitrocellulose Silk